Texas Hold'em Strategies and Tip's
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Starting Group Hand's using Hold'em Indicator (in progress)
Group 1
Pair's: AA KK QQ JJ
Suited Card's: AKs
Unsuited Card's:
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Group 2
Pair's: TT
Suited Card's: AQs AJs KQs
Unsuited Card's: AK
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Group 3
Pairs: 99
Suited Card's ATs :KJs QJs
Unsuited Card's: AQ
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Group 4
Pair's: 44 88
Suited Card's: AJs A3s A2s KTs J9s 98s
Unsuited Card's: AJ KQ
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Group 5
Pair's:
Suited Card's: A8s A5s A4s A3s A2s T8s 97s 87s 65s
Unsuited Card's: KJ QJ JT
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Group 6
Pair's: 55 66
Suited Card's: K9s 86s
Unsuited Card's: AT KT QT
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Group 7
Pair's: 33 44
Suited Card's: K8s K7s K6s K5s K2s Q8s T7s 75s 53s 43s
Unsuited Card's: J9 T9 T7 98
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Group 8
Pair's:
Suited Card's: J7s 96s 32s
Unsuited Card's: A9 K9 Q9 J8 T8 87 76 65 54
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Group 9
Suited Card's: A9s A8s A7s A6s A5s A4s K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s Q6s Q5s Q4s Q3s Q2s J8s J7s J6s J5s J4s J3s J2s T7s T6s T5s, 96s 95s 94s 93s 92s, 85s 84s 83s 82s 75s 74s 73s 72s 64s 63s 62s 54s 53s 52s 43s 42s
Unsuited Card's: A8 A7 A6 A5 A4 A3 K8 K7 K6 K5 K4 K3 K2 Q8 Q7 Q6 Q5 Q4 Q3 Q2, J7 J6 J5 J4 J3 J2 T7 T6 T5 T4 T3 T2 97 96 95 94 93 92 85 84 83 82 75 74 73 72 64 63 62 54 53 52 43 42 32
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http://wizardofodds.com/holdem
10 - Player
Pair's: AA KK QQ JJ TT
Group 1: AA KK QQ JJ TT
Suited Card's: AKs AQs AJs ATs A9s A8s A7S A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s KQs KJs KTs K9s K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s JTs
Group 1: AKs
Group 2: AQs AJs KQs
Group 3: ATs KJs JTs
Group 4: KTs
Group 5: A9s A8s A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s
Group 6: K9s
Group 7: K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s
Unsuited Card' AK AQ AJ AT A9 KQ KJ KT QJ
Group 2: AK
Group 3: AQ
Group 4: AJ KQ
Group 5: KJ QJ
Group 6: AT KT
Group 8: A9
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9 - Player's
Pair's: 99 88 77 66 55 44 33 22
Group 3: 99
Group 4: 88
Group 5: 77
Group 6: 66 55
Group 7: 44 33 22
Suited Card's: J9s J8s J7s T9s T8s T7s T6s 98s 97s 96s 76s 87s 86s 75s 65s 54s
Group 4: J9s T9s 98s
Group 5: T8sT7s 97s 76s 65s
Group 6: J8s 75s 54s
Group 8: J7s 96s
Group 9: T6s
Unsuited Card's: JT T9
Group 5: JT
Group 7: T9
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8 - Player's
Pair's: AA KK QQ JJ TT 99 88
Group 1: AA KK QQ JJ
Group 2: TT
Group 3: 99
Group 4: 88
Suited Card's: AKs AQs AJs ATs A9s A8s KQs KJs KTs K9s QJs QTs Q9s JTs J9s T9s
Group 1: AKs
Group 2: AQs KQs
Group 3: ATs KJs JTs
Group 4: QTs J9s T9s
Group 5: A9s A8s Q9s
Unsuited Card's: AK AQ AJ KQ KJ
Group 2: AK
Group 3: AQ
Group 4: AJ KQ
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7 - Player's
Pair's: 77 66 55 44 33 22
Group 5: 77
Group 6: 66 55
Group 7: 44 33 22
Suited Card's: ATs A9s A8s A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s, KTs K9s K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s Q8s Q7s Q6s J8s J7s T8s T7s 98s 97s 87s 86s 76s 65s
Group 3: ATs
Group 4: KTs 98s
Group 5: A9s A8s A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s T8s 97s 87s 76s 65s
Group 6: K9s J8s 86s
Group 7: K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s Q8s T7s
Group 8: J7s
Group 9: Q7s Q6s
Unsuited Card's: AT A9 KT K9 QJ QT Q9 JT J9 T9
Group 5: QJ JT
Group 6: AT KT QT
Group 7: J9 T9
Group 8: A9 K9
Group 9: Q9
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6 - Player's
Pair's: AA KK QQ JJ TT 99
Group 1: AA KK QQ JJ
Group 2: TT
Group 3: 99
Suited Card's: ATs A9s A8s KQs KJs QJs QTs JTs
Group 2: KQs
Group 3: ATs KJs QJs JTs
Group 4: QTs
Group 5: A9s A8s
Unsuited Card's: AK AQ AJ
Group 2: AK
Group 3: AQ
Group 4: AJ
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5 - Player's
Pair's: 88 77 66 55 44 33 22
Group 4: 88
Group 5: 77
Group 6: 66 55
Group 7: 44 33 22
Suited Card's: A9s A8s A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s KTs K9s K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s QJs Q9s Q8s Q7s Q6s Q5s JTs J9s J8s J7s T9s T8s T7s 98s 97s 87s
Group 3: QJs
Group 4: KTs J9s T9 98s
Group 5: A9s A8s A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s Q9s T8s 97s 87s
Group 6: K9s J8s
Group 7: K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s Q8s T7s
Group 8: J7s
Gtoup 9: Q7s Q6s Q5s
Unsuited Card's: AT A9 A8 A7 A6 A5 KT K9 K8 QJ QT Q9 JT J9 T9
Group 5: QJ JT
Group 6: AT KT QT
Group 7: J9 T9
Group 8: A9 A8 K9 Q9
Group 9: A7 A6 A5 K8
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4- Player's
Pair's: AA KK QQ JJ TT 99 88 77
Group 1: AA KK QQ JJ
Group 2: TT
Group 3: 99
Group 4: 88
Group 5: 77
Suited Card's: AKs AQs AJs ATs KJs KTs QTs JTs
Group 1: AKs
Group 2: AQs AJs KJs
Group 3: ATs KTs QTs JTs
Unsuited Card's: AK AQ AJ AT KJ
Group 2: AK KJ
Group 3: AQ
Group 4: AJ
Group 6: AT
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3 - Player's
Pair's: AA KK QQ JJ TT 99 88
Group 1: AA KK QQ JJ
Group 2: TT
Group 3: 99
Group 4: 88
Suited Card's: AKs AQs AJs ATs KQs KJs KTs
Group 1: AKs
Group 2: AQs AJs KQs
Group 3: ATs KJs
Group 4: KTs
Unsuited Card's: AK AQ AJ KQ KJ
Group 2: AK
Group 3: AQ
Group 4: AJ KQ
Group 5: KJ
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2 - Player's
Pair's AA KK QQ JJ TT 99 88 77 66 55 44 33 22
Group 1: AA KK QQ JJ
Group 2: TT
Group 3: 99
Group 4: 88
Group 5: 77
Group 6: 66 55
Group 7: 44 33 22
Suited Card's: AKs AQs AJs ATs A9s A8s A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s KQs KTs K9s K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s QJs QTs Q9s Q8s JTs J9s J8s J7s T9s 98s 97s 96s 87s 86s 85s 76s 75s 74s 65s 64s 54s 53s 43s 42s 32s
Group 1: AKs
Group 2: AQs AJs KQs
Group 3: ATs QJs JTs
Group 4: J9s T9s 98s
Group 5: A9s A8s A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s Q9s 97s 87s 76s 65s
Group 6: KTs QTs J8s 86s 75s 54s
Group 7: K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s Q8s 64s 53s 43s
Group 8: K9s J7s 96s 85s 74s 42s 32s
Unsuited Card's: AK AQ AJ AT A9 KQ KJ KT K9 QT Q9 J9 J8 T9 T8 98 87 76 65 54
Group 2: AK
Group 3: AQ
Group 4: AJ KQ
Group 5: KJ
Group 6: AT KT QT
Group 7: J9 T9 98
Group 8: A9 K9 Q9 J8 T8 87 76 65 54
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In Early Position
Rise with A-A, K-K and A-Ks from any position. (S denotes suited cards) Call with A-K, A-Qs, K-Qs and Q-Q J-J, T-T and fold everything else.
In Middle Position
Call with, 9-9, 8-8, A-Js, A-Ts, Q-Js, A-Q, K-Q
In Late Position
Call with A-Xs, K-Ts, Q-Ts, J-Ts, and A-J, A-T and small pairs. (Note x denotes any card) It takes a stronger hand to call a raise than it does to make with one, if there is a raise before it is your turn to act you should fold. Why put in two bets with marginal hands?
Note:
Many players will play any two suited cards from any position and they will play an Ace with any small kicker. These hands are losers in the long run and you should avoid getting into the habit of playing them. They are traps that will cost you money.
The Blinds
Once you post your blind the money no longer belongs to you. Many players feel they must defend their blinds by calling all raises even with marginal hands. Don't waste additional money on marginal hands. Also, don't automatically call with the small blind if you have nothing. Saving a half bet will pay for your next small blind.
The Flop
Deciding whether to continue playing after seeing the flop will be your second biggest decision. It can also be one of the most costly decisions if you continue after the flop with an inferior hand. It is said that the flop defines your hand. That is because after the flop your hand will be 71 percent complete. Where does this figure come from?
Assuming you play your hand out to the end, it will consist of seven cards. After the flop you have seen five cards or 5/7 of the final hand, which is equal to 71 percent. With this much of your hand complete you should have enough information to determine whether to continue. Poker Author Shane Smith coined the phrase “Fit or Fold.
If the flop does not fit your hand by giving you top pair, or better or a straight or flush draw, then you should fold if thee is a bet in front of you. If you played a small pair from late position and you do not flop a third one to make a set you should throw the pair away if there is a bet.
The Turn
If you think you have the best hand after seeing the Turn card and are first to act, then go ahead and bet. Many players will try to get fancy and attempt to check raise in this position.
If the other players also check, you have lost a bet or two. In low limit games the straight forward approach is usually the best as there are plenty of players who will call you. Make them pay. Why give them a free card if you don't have to.
If another player rises on the turn and you hold only one pair you are more than likely beaten and should fold.
If you get to the Turn and you hold only two unsuited over cards (two cards higher that any cards on the board) with no flush or straight draw, then you should fold if there is a bet in front of you. Too much money is lost by players who hope to catch a miracle card on the river. The best hand you can make with two unsuited over cards is a pair which will probably lose anyways.
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It may seem obvious, but deciding which starting hands to play, and which ones to skip playing, is one of the most important Texas Holdem poker decisions you'll make. Deciding which starting hands to play begins by accounting for several factors:
* Starting Hand "groups" (Sklansky made some good suggestions in his classic "Theory of Poker" book by David Sklansky)
* Your table position
* Number of players at the table
* Chip position
Sklansky originally proposed some Texas Holdem poker starting hand groups, which turned out to be very useful as general guidelines. Below you'll find a "modified" (enhanced) version of the Sklansky starting hands table. I adapted the original Sklansky tables, which were "too tight" and rigid for my liking, into a more playable approach that are used in the Poker Sidekick poker odds calculator. Here's the key to these starting hands:
Groups 1 to 8: These are essentially the same scale as Sklansky originally proposed, although some hands have been shifted around to improve playability and there is no group 9.
Group 30: These are now "questionable" hands, hands that should be played rarely, but can be reasonably played occasionally in order to mix things up and keep your opponents off balance. Loose players will play these a bit more often, tight players will rarely play them, and experienced players will open with them only occasionally and randomly.
The table below is the exact set of starting hands that Poker Sidekick uses when it calculates starting poker hands. If you use Poker Sidekick, it will tell you which group each starting hand is in (if you can't remember them), along with estimating the "relative strength" of each starting hand. You can just print this article and use it as a starting hand reference.
Sklansky Hold'em Hand Groupings:
Group 1: AA, KK, QQ, JJ, AKs
Group 2: TT, AQs, AJs, KQs, AK
Group 3: 99, JTs, QJs, KJs, ATs, AQ
Group 4: T9s, KQ, 88, QTs, 98s, J9s, AJ, KTs
Group 5: 77, 87s, Q9s, T8s, KJ, QJ, JT, 76s, 97s, Axs, 65s
Group 6: 66, AT, 55, 86s, KT, QT, 54s, K9s, J8s, 75s
Group 7: 44, J9, 64s, T9, 53s, 33, 98, 43s, 22, Kxs, T7s, Q8s
Group 8: 87, A9, Q9, 76, 42s, 32s, 96s, 85s, J8, J7s, 65, 54, 74s, K9, T8, 43
The second table here has been floating around and it was part of someones research project their senior year. They did a number of tests that proved that the Sklansky table was good, but needed improvement.
Modified Hold'em Hand Groupings:
Group 1: AA KK QQ JJ AKs
Group 2: TT AQs AJs KQs AK
Group 3: 99 KTs QJs KJs ATs AQ
Group 4: A8s KQ 88 QTs A9s AT AJ JTs
Group 5: 77 Q9s KJ QJ JT A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s J9s T9s K9s KT QT
Group 6: 66 J8s 98s T8s 55 J9 43s 75s T9 33 98 64s 22 K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s Q8s 44 87s 97s
Group 7: 87 53s A9 Q9 76s 42s 32s 96s 85s J8 J7s 65 54 74s K9 T8 76 65s 54s 86
2 Player's The Dynamics of Heads
above 50% stack sizes
Raising's with groups 1 - 7 Call all in with groups 1 - 5
Below 50% stack sizes
Raising's all in with Sklansky Group 1 - 5
Re Raising's all in with groups 1 - 3
So those are the enhanced Sklansky Texas Holdem poker starting hand tables.
The later your position at the table (dealer is latest position, small blind is earliest), the more starting hands you should play. If you're on the dealer button, with a full table, play groups 1 thru 6. If you're in middle position, reduce play to groups 1 thru 3 (tight) and 4 (loose). In early position, reduce play to groups 1 (tight) or 1 thru 2 (loose). Of course, in the big blind, you get what you get.
As the number of players drops into the 5 to 7 range, I recommend tightening up overall and playing far fewer, premium hands from the better positions (groups 1 - 2). This is a great time to forget about chasing flush and straight draws, which puts you at risk and wastes chips.
As the number of players drops to 4, it's time to open up and play far more hands (groups 1 - 5), but carefully. At this stage, you're close to being in the money in a Texas Holdem poker tournament, so be extra careful. I'll often just protect my blinds, steal occasionally, and try to let the smaller stacks get blinded or knocked out (putting me into the money). If I'm one of the small stacks, well, then I'm forced to pick the best hand I can get and go all-in and hope to double-up.
When the play is down to 3, it's time to avoid engaging with big stacks and hang on to see if we can land 2nd place, heads-up. I tend to tighten up a bit here, playing very similar to when there's just 3 players (avoiding confrontation unless I'm holding a pair or an Ace or a King, if possible). Once you're heads-up, well, that's a topic for a completely different article, but in general, it's time to become extraordinarily aggressive, raise a lot, and become "pushy".
In tournaments, it's always important to keep track of your chips stack size relative to the blinds and everyone else's stacks. If you're short on chips, then play far fewer hands (tighter), and when you do get a good hand, extract as many chips as you can with it. If you're the big stack, well, you should avoid unnecessary confrontation, but use your big stack position to push everyone around and steal blinds occasionally as well - without risking too many chips in the process (the other players will be trying to use you to double-up, so be careful).
Well, that's a quick overview of an improved set of starting hands and some general rules for adjusting starting hand play based upon game conditions throughout the tournament play.
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Color Coded Full Tilt Note/Color marker system.
1) Light Purple: Phone (Monkey) - Calling Station (Slightly Loose, Passive). Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is between 28% and 33%; Aggression Factor is less than 1.00, sub-human poker player that simply doesn't know any better newbie, unbluffable, dense.
2) Bright Purple: Fish - Fishy (Loose, Passive). Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is greater than 33%; Aggression Factor is less than 1.50
3) Red: Fox - Loose, Aggressive. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is greater than 33%; Aggression Factor is greater than 1.50.
4) Orange: Duck - Slightly Loose, Neutral. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is between 28% and 33%; Aggression Factor is between 1.00 and 1.50.
5) Light Orange: Dice - Gambler (Slightly Loose, Aggressive, Overplay). Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is between 28% and 33%; Aggression Factor is greater than 1.00. Went to Showdown % is greater than 39%.
6) Yellow: Bomb - Slightly Loose, Aggressive, Solid. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is between 28% and 33%; Aggression Factor is greater than 1.50; Went to Showdown % is less than 39%.
7) Light Green: Bomb - Slightly Loose, Aggressive, Solid. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is between 28% and 33%; Aggression Factor is greater than 1.50; Went to Showdown % is less than 39%.
8) Sky Blue: Happy Face - Neutral, Aggressive, Overplay. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is between 24% and 28%; Aggression Factor is greater than 1.50; Went to Showdown % is greater than 39%.
9) Green: Elephant - Neutral, Passive. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is between 24% and 28%; Aggression Factor is less than 1.50. Passive, plays too many hands calls often, raises much less, hard to bluff, flush and ace masters.
10) Dark Green: Jackyl ! - Neutral, Aggressive, Solid. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is between 24% and 28%; Aggression Factor is greater than 1.50; Went to Showdown % is less than 39%. Maniacal player, raises with lots of hands, little regard for position pressure plays, creates victims.
11) Light Blue: Rock - (Tight, Passive, Solid). Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is less than 24%; Aggression Factor is less than 1.00; Went to Showdown % is less than 39%.
12) Dark Blue: Mouse - Tight, Passive, Overplay. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is less than 24%; Aggression Factor is less than 1.00; Went to Showdown % is greater than 39%. Book player, tight, plays little pots comes out fighting for cheese with the goods.
13) Blue: Eagle - Tight, Neutral. Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is less than 24%; Aggression Factor is between 1.00 and 1.50. Pro player that morphs into any other style given the situation, will scoop your stack, and tilt you.
14) Purple/Blue: Money Bag - Good Player (Tight, Aggressive, Solid). Voluntary Put Money in Pot % is less than 24%; Aggression Factor is greater than 1.50; Went to Showdown % is less than 39%.
15) Purple: Lion - tricky, knows position play and odds. experienced, mixes it up online semi-pro, aggressive post flop.
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